This restaurant in Berkeley attracts long queues for lunch, and its newly introduced dinner service is even more exceptional.

I was taken aback to discover that Regular Menu, a beloved daytime café in Berkeley, had started offering dinner. I had always thought that owner Kelsie Kerr was solely focused on lunch, the kind of seasoned chef who would prefer to chop onions with a blunt knife rather than tackle another evening service, and had structured her establishment around that. By 11:30 a.m., a queue of devoted patrons gathers at the wheelchair ramp, and soon after, the outdoor benches and stools are completely filled. By 2:30 p.m., the kitchen shuts down for the day.

However, Kerr never intended to operate a neighborhood lunch spot. In reality, she isn't particularly keen on sandwiches. When she launched Regular Menu in 2014, it was located in a historic brick structure in West Berkeley that contained commercial kitchens. Her original idea was to create a food business focused on selling ready-to-eat meals for takeout. Unfortunately, that approach didn’t succeed, prompting her to shift gears and draw on her extensive background from renowned Bay Area establishments such as Zuni Café, Square One, and Chez Panisse.

Zoning regulations created a challenge for Regular Menu. It wasn't allowed to function as a traditional sit-down restaurant, nor could it serve alcohol. Over the last ten years, it has carved out a niche with its offerings of hearty porridges and vegetable-laden frittatas, held together by just a touch of egg. For lunchtime, the menu features an array of soups, salads, and inventive salad sandwiches, which often consist of a vibrant mix of greens tucked between two slices of pizza bianca. Patrons place their orders at the counter and find spots to sit wherever they can. While it may not have been the vision Kerr had in mind, this daytime-only neighborhood eatery is the reality she has created.

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That all changed last summer, when Kerr launched Regular Menu 3.0. After years of working with the city to secure four different permits, the restaurant — now officially a restaurant, and one licensed to sell wine and beer — is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday. As opposed to the lunch menu, which varies from day to day, the evening menu changes weekly. 

This is fantastic news, particularly for those of us who aren’t able to enjoy a Tuesday lunch at Regular Menu on a regular basis. Kerr’s lunches are delightful, but her dinners take it to another level. While her sandwiches are great, there’s so much more she provides that goes beyond a quick lunch option. 

Kerr's culinary background clearly influences her cooking style, which is focused on seasonal ingredients and fresh produce. During the winter months, her menu may come across as minimalistic to some, especially those who are not fond of bitter greens or lesser-known root vegetables. In late December, her offerings included chicories, kale, escarole, spinach, and mustard greens. It's quintessentially Berkeley cuisine, featuring brown rice and beans, Acme bread, and house-made pickles. Kerr treats each ingredient with care and simplicity, allowing its natural flavors to take center stage. Though I never had a particular fondness for parsnips, trying her rosemary parsnip pudding soufflé ($23) has completely changed my perspective.

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Regular Menu is not without its indulgences. Kerr lik