Nizza - The Quintessential Expression of Barbera

As Barbera is the most widely planted red grape in Piemonte, there is a strong identity with this varietal. Distinctive for its high acidity and relatively low level of tannins for a red varietal, it is found in dining rooms across the region, from the humblest trattorie to the most elegantly appointed ristoranti. Given its flavor and sensory profiles, Barbera is an ideal selection at lunch, especially as its lively acidity cuts through the fatty qualities of all types of salumi. Likewise, its modest tannins give Barbera an immediate drinkability not often found with most other reds, local or international.

Barbera possesses a commendable character, yet when juxtaposed with local wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, which are exclusively crafted from Nebbiolo, it often finds itself in a secondary position. This is largely due to the exceptional quality of Piemonte’s most renowned red wines; the best Barolo and Barbaresco can mature beautifully over many years, while most Barbera selections are generally designed for more immediate enjoyment.

Introducing Nizza, a wine crafted exclusively from Barbera, which has transformed the perception of this grape variety. Despite its relatively short history, Nizza has emerged as a remarkable red wine that showcases exceptional varietal authenticity, impressive complexity, and, perhaps most crucially, substantial aging potential.

Nizza is a wine produced in the Monferrato region of the Asti province, encompassing 18 municipalities, with Nizza Monferrato being the one that gives the wine its name. It was officially recognized as a subzone of Barbera d'Asti in the 2000 vintage, receiving DOC status. In 2008, it achieved DOCG status, and by 2014, its name was officially simplified to Nizza DOCG. This change allowed the wine to be recognized solely by its geographic designation, similar to Barolo and Barbaresco, which also do not include the grape variety on their labels. This was a significant milestone for Nizza, as it emphasized the wine's connection to its terroir, a crucial aspect in defining its quality and character.

The vineyards in the Nizza production area are situated on slopes, generally ranging from 150 to 350 meters (490 to 1150 feet) above sea level. The region primarily features sandy soils, but loamy and clayey soils can also be found throughout the area, alongside marine deposits. These soil types are particularly favorable for Barbera, enhancing the vibrant cherry and plum flavors along with the spicy hints of oregano and tobacco, while also ensuring the right balance for aging potential. In certain locations, the red soils, composed of calcareous clay and rich in iron oxides, contribute a striking red hue as well as substantial weight and structure to the wines produced.

Cellar management varies among the producers, ranging from large casks known as grandi botti (15-to 30-hectoliters in volume) to mid-size oak containers known as tonneaux (typically 500 liters) and small oak barrels of 250 liters known as barriques. Early on, there was a belief that barrique-aging was a key to the typicity of Nizza, yet some examples were too oak-laden, hiding the varietal fruit aromas of Barbera. Thankfully, most local producers have made the decision to lessen oak influence, as Stefano Chiarlo, President of the Associazione Produttori del Nizza, explains. “Generally speaking, Nizza producers are reducing the use of small and new wood; they are using more second-passage barrels or larger wood, such as 25 or 30 hectoliters.”

At present, the association boasts over 90 members, and as Chiarlo highlights, a key aspect of this collective is the pre-tasting process they conduct prior to the release of their wines. “We all sample the wines before they are bottled. Each member shares their feedback, particularly if there are any expressions that lack clarity.” Chiarlo emphasizes that this approach was established by his late father Michele, “to serve as a guide for enhancing quality and to shape the identity of Nizza wine. It’s crucial for the wines to have a distinct character.”

What defines a typical Nizza wine? According to Susanna Galandrino from La Gironda in Nizza Monferrato, “Nizza DOCG is unique for its depth, complexity, and potential for aging, while still offering remarkable elegance and drinkability.” Luca D’Attoma, the consulting winemaker for Amistà winery in Nizza Monferrato, adds that “a true Nizza should exhibit a powerful bouquet of wild berries and raspberries, complemented by spicy undertones … It is characterized by finesse, elegance, and a harmonious balance, with tannins that are never overpowering.” Lastly, Stefano Gagliardo, owner of Tenuta Garetto in Agliano Terme, emphasizes, “It’s crucial for Nizza to maintain a high average quality that continues to improve … There’s always a savory aspect, a touch of salinity, and a mineral, briny hint present in all our Garetto wines; I believe this reflects a distinctive site character within the appellation.”

Every wine association in Italy seeks greater awareness of their land and products; to that end, the Nizza Associazione has proposed a structure known as UGA (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive – Additional Geographical Units) that identifies place names – often single vineyards - in the Nizza production zone. Based on a similar