The quest for the legendary bean pie vendors and the significance of this dessert as a symbol of freedom for numerous Black Muslims.
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On November 23, 2024, in Chicago, James 40X transfers bean pies from a box into a bag for a delivery in the 5100 block of South Western Avenue. (Photo by John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)
"Man, I'm out here peddling bean pies."
James 40X’s voice came through the phone with a crackle, as if every moment of his life was in flux. I assured him I would join him immediately, by Supreme Bean Pie’s bakery, located within the Mosque Maryam compound at the Nation of Islam headquarters.
In the parking lot, 40X stood out in a stylish striped olive suit, complete with a bow tie, hat, and sunglasses. Much like the legendary bean pie vendor, he exuded a timeless charm and sophistication, offering a wholesome dessert that complemented his larger mission of advocating for Black liberation.
Just ten minutes after he passed me the pies and papers, he was back on the road. I had what I needed, no doubt, but I craved more.
Across Black neighborhoods throughout the United States, the bean pie has become a representation of the diverse Muslim communities that have developed from the Nation of Islam's nearly century-long presence in the country. For a lot of people, this dessert embodies Black pride as well as a commitment to healthy eating. Its popularity is largely attributed to vibrant street vendors like 40X, who share the messages of the late Minister Elijah Muhammad at urban intersections, markets, and fairs; among these messages is the belief that the navy bean is a superfood.
Through discussions with Black elders, local historians, restaurant owners, religious figures, scholars, and even a dapper bean pie vendor in a suit and bow tie, I’ve uncovered a glimpse into how Chicago's South Side preserves the intricate and layered histories intertwined with the bean pie. While I had the privilege of engaging with the Nation of Islam and knowledgeable community historians, confirming many historical details proved challenging. Nevertheless, it is evident that Chicago boasts a strong claim to being the historical epicenter of the bean pie in America.
Bean pie can occasionally be found in various major cities throughout the nation, but its presence has diminished on the streets since the passing of Elijah Muhammad. Supreme Bean Pie has been increasing its efforts by distributing nationally and collaborating with local distributors. While the majority of bean pies are sold by members of the Nation of Islam who adhere to Minister Louis Farrakhan, there are also Black Sunni Muslims who continue to bake these pies, preserving the tradition.
In Chicago, you can discover bean pie at several notable eateries. Supreme Bean Pie is located in the South Shore area, while Imani’s Original Bean Pies offers its own take as well. A distinctive option is Shawn Michelle’s Homemade Ice Cream, which can be found in both the Bronzeville neighborhood and south suburban Olympia Fields. Additionally, Paradise Desserts has made a comeback this winter, now serving its creations from The Good Life Soul Food Cafe.
The pie usually boasts a beautifully golden-brown crust, infused with comforting spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg, and features a custard filling that is solid enough to be enjoyed without utensils. Every bean pie artisan emphasizes their commitment to using wholesome, minimally processed ingredients and highlights the nutritional advantages of navy beans.
Bean pie serves as a delicious reminder of history, always available for those who seek it.
The Nation of Islam was established in the 1930s by the mysterious figure Wallace Fard Muhammad in Detroit. Following his unexplained disappearance, his successor, Elijah Muhammad, took up his teachings and further developed them, residing primarily on the South Side of Chicago until his passing in 1975. Subsequently, Warith Deen Mohammed, Elijah's son, shifted the organization towards a more orthodox interpretation of Islam, aligning it with the principles found in the Quran and Hadith. In the early 1980s, Louis Farrakhan broke away from this direction, reestablishing the Nation of Islam and setting up its national headquarters at Mosque Maryam.
Elijah Muhammad advocated for various philosophies, such as fostering Black pride, encouraging self-sufficiency, and promoting health awareness. His goal was to transform the dietary habits of Black Americans, moving away from what the leaders of the Nation perceived to be a harmful legacy rooted in slavery. Among the foods associated with the Nation of Islam, the navy bean, frequently served in soups, stands out as particularly significant. Additionally, bean pie, rich in fiber, protein, and essential nutrients, served as an alternative to traditional sweet potato pie.
In his two-volume work “How to Eat to Live,” Elijah Muhammad posited that “the primary reasons for our health issues stem from improper eating habits and excessive consumption.” He recommended limiting oneself to a single meal each day and prohibited several foods that are also deemed haram by Muslims worldwide, such as pork and alcoholic beverages. Although some of his claims have faced scientific scrutiny, members of the community often draw parallels between his teachings and contemporary health trends that could be advantageous, like intermittent fasting or vegetarian diets. Interestingly, while Elijah Muhammad dismissed beans in general, he regarded the navy bean with particular favor.
Dr. Donna Auston, an anthropologist and senior program officer at the Wenner-Gren Foundation, remarked, “There’s a profound link between nourishing individuals intellectually and providing for them physically.” In discussing historical and racial health inequalities, she noted that the food initiatives of the Nation of Islam serve as “a form of intervention, a notably tasty one, aimed at addressing a myriad of issues stemming from deliberate and systemic racism.”
Auston mentioned that there are numerous conflicting stories regarding the baker who first created the bean pie; however, what is clear is the significant influence the bean pie has had. Establishments that offered these pies brought not only fresh food options but also much-needed revenue into communities that were lacking in both.
Auston remarked, “The concepts of ‘food deserts’ and ‘food apartheid’ have gained traction in contemporary food studies, but the Nation of Islam was addressing these issues long before they became mainstream.”
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Imani Muhammad offers a delicious bean pie at the Go Green Community Fresh Market located on West 63rd Street in Chicago. (Photo by Terrence Antonio James/Chicago Tribune)
Author Tiffany Green-Abdullah, who works at the nonprofit Inner-City Muslim Action Network’s site in Atlanta, grew up in Chicago. Her book, “The Bean Pie: A Remembering of Our Family’s Faith, Fortitude & Forgiveness,” is a memoir that in part documents her family’s claim to being originators of the dessert.
In the narrative, it is mentioned that her mother was employed as a waitress at a Shabazz eatery in Chicago, where she often brought her great-aunt's bean pie to enjoy during her shifts. The manager of the restaurant expressed interest in the recipe, leading to its inclusion in the menu. Shabazz gained visibility through regular advertisements in Nation publications, which helped to introduce the pie to a wider audience.
Various individuals assert their connection to the creation of the pie, including a Detroiter named Mary Almanza and even Fard Muhammad. A Chicago Tribune article from 1976 highlighted Lana Shabazz, who was the personal chef of boxer Muhammad Ali, and her assertion that she developed the pie for the Shabazz Bakery—a name that has been affiliated with numerous Black Muslim enterprises throughout the years. Additionally, recipes for bean pie can be traced back to cookbooks from the late 19th century.
Many sources from Chicago suggest that the pie began to appear in local establishments during the late 1960s and early 1970s, coinciding with a rise in Black cultural pride and entrepreneurship.
"Nuri Madina, currently an environmental consultant, shared, 'A lot of us found employment in those establishments. My first job was at Shabazz with the Nation.' Although Madina wasn't a trained baker, he worked there for a year. In 1975, he co-managed Salaam restaurant, where they offered Shabazz bean pie and various other dishes for two years before it shut down."
Following the passing of Elijah Muhammad, there was a need for revitalization as several of the Chicago bean pie establishments shut down. However, some managed to sustain the tradition by preserving the recipe through storytelling and communal baking efforts.
“Bean pie serves as a foundational representation of the Nation of Islam community,” stated Sultan Muhammad, the resident imam at Mosque Maryam. “While we do have a traditional Nation recipe, many individuals take great pride in crafting their own unique versions.”
Michael Muhammad, a member of the Nation of Islam, has recently reopened Paradise Desserts, a business he operates alongside his wife, Nneka Muhammad. He mentioned that many of his patrons were unfamiliar with bean pie prior to his introduction of it.
Muhammad received his recipe from Sister Angela in North Carolina, who first introduced him to the most delicious bean pie he had ever tasted. His version features a creamy texture and perfectly balanced spices. Additionally, he provides variations of bean pie topped with whipped cream cheese and fresh fruit.
“The bean pie stands as an emblem of American culture,” Green-Abdullah remarked. She, along with numerous others, has noted that it is among the few foods that can genuinely be described as Muslim American.
Bean pie holds a distinct place in Black culture, Islamic tradition, and American heritage. This unique blend is what makes its history so significant to Green-Abdullah, who believes it deserves to be preserved.
Today's selection of pies, served alongside a scoop of ice cream.
Supreme Bean Pie asserts its status as the "original," representing a fresh chapter for Shabazz Bakeries. The shutdown of Shabazz marked a transformative time for the bean pie, yet numerous new establishments emerged to continue its legacy.
Yahya Muhammad, one of the co-owners of Shawn Michelle’s, shared that their bean pie is a favorite among local customers from the South Side. However, they have also introduced this classic treat to a younger audience by incorporating it into their ice cream offerings. The artisanal ice cream shop has been serving the Taste of Heaven Bean Pie flavor as a seasonal special since 1998. Recently, they launched another bean pie-inspired flavor called Sajdah Exquisite Sweet Custard Pie, adding a new twist to the beloved dessert. Both flavors are crafted from the original Supreme Bean Pie, yet they present distinctly different interpretations of this iconic dish.
“The bean pie is an integral part of my existence,” Yahya Muhammad proclaimed, his voice resonating throughout the Bronzeville branch of Shawn Michelle’s, named in honor of his late sister. “When you indulge in Shawn Michelle’s, you’re not just tasting food; you’re immersing yourself in my journey. You’re engaging with the rich historical and cultural legacy of the Black community.”
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On August 6, 2024, Yahya Muhammad, the proprietor of Shawn Michelle’s Homemade Ice Cream parlor located in Chicago, is photographed at his establishment. The shop features two unique flavors of Bean Pie ice cream. (Terrence Antonio James/Chicago Tribune)
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Shawn Michelle’s Homemade Ice Cream shop in Chicago features two delightful bean pie ice cream flavors: Taste of Heaven, on the left, and Sajdah. (Terrence Antonio James/Chicago Tribune)
Beside him were Elijah Bey, the manager of Supreme Bean Pie, and Sajdah Wendy Muhammad, who is dedicated to the preservation of important Nation of Islam landmarks at the Elijah Muhammad House Museum. Interestingly, Sajdah shares her name with the second flavor of bean pie.
Sajdah Wendy Muhammad states that the bean pie reached its height of popularity when it was sold at Jewel-Osco stores in Chicago. A 1977 article from the Chicago Tribune backs this up, noting that these pies were found in several markets. Additionally, Imani’s Original Bean Pies were previously available at Whole Foods.
Sajdah Wendy Muhammad expressed, “The sight of that bean pie on the shelves symbolized much more than merely a substitute for sweet potato pie. It embodied a movement aimed at our liberation and freedom.”
Bey mentioned that his clients often associate bean pie with the red bean paste desserts commonly enjoyed in Asian culinary traditions.
Yahya Muhammad describes Taste of Heaven ice cream as a "celebratory flavor," blending the essence of bean pie with delightful chunks of real pie throughout. The rich, buttery flavor and texture of the crust remain intact even after freezing. On the other hand, Sajdah Exquisite Sweet Custard is a simple, creamy ice cream without any added ingredients, perfectly capturing the essence of bean pie with every spoonful.
Yahya Muhammad expressed his desire to make the two flavors a permanent addition to the menu. He suggests enjoying them individually, as each offers a distinct experience.
At Shawn Michelle’s, you can find Supreme’s bean pies offered either as a whole pie or in slices, perfect for those daring foodies who might want to indulge in a unique dessert experience of bean pie served with bean pie ice cream. It’s bean pie served with a twist of bean pie!
“Navy beans hold a special place in Muslim communities,” shared Imani Muhammad, the baker behind Imani’s Original Bean Pies and Fine Foods. “We used to enjoy bean soup nearly every day.”
In the mid-2000s, a thriving school project combined with a home-cooking adventure inspired her to launch a business centered on bean pie. Currently, her pies are available for purchase online and at various markets in Chicago, but she has recently made a comeback selling directly to customers at the Quarry Event Center. Her unique and handcrafted approach to this classic dessert has garnered her a loyal following among food enthusiasts.
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Imani Muhammad offers her delicious bean pies at the Go Green Community Fresh Market located on West 63rd Street in Chicago. (Photo by Terrence Antonio James/Chicago Tribune)
Imani Muhammad caters to customer demands by offering vegan bean pies, opting for unprocessed ingredients instead of egg substitutes to give her creations a unique twist. Additionally, she features fruit-infused variations, including options like apple, peach, and blueberry.
"We aim to create sustainable communities," stated Imani Muhammad. As a member of the steering committee for the Go Green Community Fresh Market, which features her pies, she highlighted the initiative's goal to tackle systemic food disparities in the Englewood area, organized by the nonprofit Inner-City Muslim Action Network. "We want to ensure that making healthy choices is accessible without having to journey far."
In numerous respects, IMAN reflects the historical American Muslim initiative to address food apartheid in Black neighborhoods by providing access to fresh produce and essential nutritional resources.
“Sana Syed, the chief of growth and strategy at IMAN, stated, ‘We are deliberate in our efforts to highlight the bean pie, a dish that is deeply rooted in the American Muslim culture. We recognize that we are building upon the legacy of various liberation movements that played a crucial role in the African American Muslim narrative. The bean pie holds a significant place in that history.’”
The documents and the pie maker
On my initial visit to Supreme Bean Pie, I was greeted by friendly security personnel who directed me to place my order at the entrance of the locked doors of the Muhammad University of Islam, where the bakery resides. While the security staff is approachable, visitors need an escort and an invitation to venture further, a fact that food writer Mike Sula and food historian Peter Engler discovered during their bean pie exploration, which Sula documented for the Chicago Reader in 2013. However, after connecting with Bey and other members of the Nation of Islam, I was graciously invited to attend services at Mosque Maryam; I am still waiting for my request to tour the bakery to be fulfilled.
Bey and 40X observed that the majority of Supreme’s pie sales are aimed at supporting the Muhammad University of Islam, an institution that provides education from pre-kindergarten to 12th grade, and promotes an “independent Black education.”
Bey mentioned that Supreme is exploring various innovative strategies to market bean pie and aims to reintroduce the pie to supermarket displays. During a Sunday service at Mosque Maryam, one of the concluding announcements was: “Supreme Bean Pie, now available for nationwide delivery. Order through Uber Eats.”
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On November 23, 2024, in Chicago, James 40X shares a laugh with Wilbur Muhammad following the delivery of bean pies for a funeral repast. (Photo by John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)
The classic image of bean pie conjures up the sight of a man in a suit and bow tie peddling it on the streets. Curious, I inquired with numerous residents of the South Side about whether this tradition still thrived. It seemed like a quest for an illusion—maybe on Saturdays along 79th Street and Stony Island Avenue, or perhaps around 83rd Street. Then, out of the blue, I received a call from James 40X.
We had the opportunity to meet face-to-face and had several phone conversations. I was curious whether the Nation still maintained a policy that prioritizes Black customers.
"40X stated, 'We have no bias when it comes to selling to anyone.'"
"It’s a pie that belongs to everyone, although its origins are rooted in the Black community," Bey remarked.
40X operates as an independent distributor, purchasing pies in large quantities from Supreme and then reselling them independently. Over the years, he has cultivated his own group of loyal customers. Although he started his selling journey in 2010, he emphasizes that his primary focus remains on the Final Call, the official publication of the Nation of Islam, which he refers to as the “No. 1 program.” His involvement with selling these newspapers dates back to 1975, when they were known as Muhammad Speaks.
40X frequently departs in a hurry, providing transportation for local residents and then attending to various responsibilities for his family and the Muslim community. However, from what I've observed, he consistently appears in a sharp, well-fitted ensemble.
The tale of the bean pie man, who brings health and wisdom, continues to be shared.
The Supreme Bean Pie, 7351 S. Stony Island Ave., thesupremebeanpie.com Imani’s Original Bean Pies, at The Quarry Event Center, 2423 E. 75th St., 773-900-7822, imanisoriginals.com Shawn Michelle’s Homemade Ice Cream, 46 E. 47th St., 773-675-4032 Option #1 and 3252 Vollmer Road, Olympia Fields, 773-675-4032 Option #2, shawnmichelles.com Paradise Desserts, 11226 S. Halsted St., 773-678-3248, instagram.com/paradisedessertsllc
